Hallo from England - sometimes Saxony !

[beachcomber]

I want to have all the possible solutions in my garage before I finalise the design.

And as a stand by - I pulled the trigger on one of the Chinabay electric pumps. Courtesy of a bit of spare cash from the Volvo garage parts sale ! Just under £50 delivered and it arrived FOUR days after my order was placed. It is very substantial and well made.

Now I have several options to the Turbo / oil cooler oil supply question.

The pump won't be wasted if I don't use it on the bike project - as it will see duty on my supercharged Volvo 940 Estate project. Yes, another ongoing plaything !

What isn't obvious from the picture is the the size and weight ! It must be about 2 kilos and around the size of the KZ starter motor !

I now have my OEM workshop manual and some space in my garage !!

I will take the covers off my old engine in the next two weeks [ must clean up the garage first ! ] and then I can have an idea if the Gixer pump will fit inside the crankcase.

[beachcomber]

repeated from "Lonesometwin" forum

Michael,

yes my engine IS in a very poor external condition !  I hope to be pleasantly surprised when I look inside !

However, I have been soaking it every week or so for the past 3 months with engine de-greaser to loosen the worst of the mess. All that loose stuff is off now - not too bad at all.

I have a Soda Blasting pot which I plan to use before strip down. My pal has a big beast compressor if my "hobby" unit does not have enough pressure.

Electric pump - this is a last preferred option.

Yes, pump on with ignition on  [WITH activated light ]-BEFORE starting. This way I have a supply of oil to the turbo before it runs.

That also means I can run cool oil through the turbo after the engine stops running - like my old Alpine GTA Turbo.

I have asked the manufacturers of the pump for the specs - particularly pressure. I already have volume - 14 litres / minute.

Without question - the Gixer oil pump is the best solution, internal preferred - external if I have to.

Yes, you have it exactly - driven from the same spindle as the OEM pump. ALL that depends now on the distance from the mounting face [ see ChrisLWG's set up ]to the centres of the drive wheel. As long as that distance is GREATER than the centre to the Gixer pump, I can use that drive.

Of course, I have not taken into account the electrical requirements yet ! You KNOW that I am an electrical imbecile !

[beachcomber]

Some advice please - how good is the later electronic ignition system ? My bike is 1976.


I have two options to explore - an add on electronic package to control the timing curve, rev limiter etc. - or a replacement system.

I need to have the option to retard the ignition at maybe two points ( max turbo boost and nitrous oxide activation. The ability to fine tune the advance curve would also be beneficial.  

[beachcomber]

This is what £18 gets you from Chinabay !  8)

SUPERB quality - complete with it's own foam case.

Definitely erring towards the Gixer pump now. Hoping there's room inside, if not -  it's an external setup.

A few more bits from Chinabay and I can start laying the parts out for a proper look see.

[ausreiter]

Hi TJ,

for the ignition is a System without the mechanicle flyweight governor the best option.
I dont now what for an add on System you can use, the original System with the govenor
is off corse the most uneffective possibility.
A good System is a System with controlling the timing curve, indeed.
May be you can have more input by this firm  https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/ZDG3/s ... 0/&lang=de

This is an digital System for ignition from Germany, an it funzt. Same IG Member drive the System
in tuning engines.
Please tell what for a System you have.

always good luck,
Peter

[Michael]

Hi TJ,

the LTD (stock, electronic) ignition is simple, very reliable and virtually maintainance free.

It uses an external ignition box, about half the size of a cigarette box.
This box needs 12V (nominal) from a battery, otherwise it will deliver no spark.

It has no rev limiter !

You can't set the ignition timing, it is fixed by the mounting plate at the engine case.
A long slot/hole may allow a little bit of adjustment, but that is not stock.
I would not recommend to try that, because idle ignition is at 5° BTDC, but full advanced ignition is at 30° BTDC only.
To achieve a full advanced ignition at e.g. 35°, you automatically advance the idle ignition by these 5° to 10° BTDC.
I doubt the engine would start reliable with that setting and idle speed may need to be set to 2.000 rpm to keep it running without damage / backfire.

Ignition curve is the same as with the points ignition (Kontaktzündung) of the B-models.

Both ignitions use a mechanical timing advancer.
This must be in good condition and greased for proper function.
Only issue are the springs of the timing advancer.
They weaken over time, are not available as separate spare parts and cause the idle to become instable. 

All of my roadworthy Twins (incl. the B / Caferacer) have the LTD ignition and I will give the already bought Sachse ignition a try this year.

Cheers, Michael

[beachcomber]

Michael,

thanx for the headsup on the ignition. Plenty of time to make decisions [ and save up some money ! ].

Slight terminal inexactitude on the price of the cooler     - I forgot I upgraded to swivel fittings £29.00 delivered. 

I think I've located a suitable remote oil pressure relief valve [ turbo supply ]. The Gixer pump puts out 55 psi before the bye-pass opens - I only need 35 'ish for the turbo supply otherwise seals will suffer.

The Aussie one is  £169 + carriage [ £20 ]

Take a look at the very similar layout of the Mercedes 420 version - £28 !!!! A pity I am no longer in Saxony !

A supplier in Birmingham [ UK ! ] has them in stock. Only 15 miles away so I plan to call in and have a good look at one.

[beachcomber]

More parts arrived today [ Chinabay !! ].

Here's the turbo oil return sump. Superb quality and the price was 75% cheaper than a similar item from the UK ! Delivery ? - 6 days !

Also a few more swivel hose connectors and the sample of braided hose [ 30cms ] - I wanted to check the quality out before ordering all my hoses. No concern - the hose is excellent quality, like the rest of the parts.

[beachcomber]

The Flat Tracker "Tangerine Dream" is finally morphing into "Glemseck" - the Sixties style Cafe Racer - Turbo'd !

I already have some old style Tarozzi clip ons [ correct size ! ]and a choice of seat bases, although I'll probably go with the AJS 7R style.

I have ordered the Mercedes 420 oil pressure relief valve - I'm certain I can make that work !

I'm just waiting for some measurements to come through before committing / ordering the following.

The fairing top will give me somewhere to hang the various gauges [ boost, oil pressure for Turbo and engine ] and eventually nitrous oxide paraphenalia. Maybe even the NOS bottle.

The Manx "tank" is in fact a cover only. That means I can use a stock steel KZ tank without having to worry about ethanol etc., but still have the styling I want. That means I can keep my modified tank - I have put too much time into that .Maybe I should get another bike so I can use it [ road only ].

I will be on the lookout for the smallest tank that will fit [ one of the custom jobbies ? ]and of course the cosmetic condition is not important - in fact the more battered - the cheaper - I can use that. As long as it's sound and petrol proof it will do. Any suggestions for which style ?

I have all the parts I need for the Gixer oil pump mock up now - either internal [ like Chris LWG ] or external. I prefer the internal method. But if I have to, the external method is quite simple with the drive from the Alternator centre bolt.

[beachcomber]

SO THE INTERNAL PUMP LOCATION IS A NON STARTER !!!!

OK, plan B .... The external location driven from the end of the alternator screw is definitely a goer.

Even sorted out the drive - thanx to Kenny and the loan of more bits ! So I looked at the end of the Gixer pump and thought - "use the end with the spindle / cog"

Yep that works a treat. Gives me a housing with bearing / seal - simple bolt on, and has the advantage of using the Gixer drive chain. It simplifies my " can you make that for me please mister" list as well. "All" I need is the OEM Gixer drive spindle shortening and a slot machined in the alternator screw for the drive.  Not quite as simple as that - but nearly so. Just as well I have THREE Gixer pumps.

Major session in the shed today. Once the pump location was sorted, a lot of the other packaging fell into place. By moving [ oh futtox ] the carefully laid out and constructed under seat electrics and tray [ !! ] I can move the turbo up and back sufficiently to get a gravity return to the sump of the turbo oil - that also means I don't need a scavenge pump - or remote sump. Might bring a new meaning to the phrase "roasted nuts" ............... need a good source of heat protection !

Pulled the pin on the Norvil half fairing and tinted screen, and I'm 99% certain about the Manx tank cover.